ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Photography's Shifting Gaze on Female Beauty Standards

opinion-review · 2026-04-26

The article examines how male photographers like Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, Steven Meisel, Terry Richardson, Patrick Demarchelier, and David LaChapelle have historically shaped female beauty standards through fashion photography, perpetuating a male gaze that objectifies women. It traces this visual language from 19th-century fashion illustration through photography, advertising, cinema, television, and social media. The patriarchal structure confined women to domestic roles and motherhood, excluding them from economic and artistic sectors. Beauty ideals have oscillated between the statuesque figures of the 1980s (Cindy Crawford, Elle Macpherson, Eva Herzigová, Claudia Schiffer) and the extreme thinness of the 1990s-2000s (Kate Moss, Agyness Deyn), contributing to eating disorders among adolescents. Today, photographers like Giulio Favotto offer a more intimate and equitable approach, as seen in his project "PATERNITY RATIO," which explores relationships, sexuality, and paternity while blurring gender boundaries. Favotto's images communicate beauty without centering on the human body, focusing instead on immaterial values. The article notes that progress has allowed more female photographers to tell their own stories, and activist movements for gender equality have been strongly conveyed through art and fashion. Male perspectives have also evolved toward more egalitarian and hybrid documentation, moving away from gender stereotypes.

Key facts

  • Male photographers like Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, Steven Meisel, Terry Richardson, Patrick Demarchelier, and David LaChapelle have historically shaped female beauty standards.
  • The visual language of beauty evolved from 19th-century fashion illustration through photography, advertising, cinema, television, and social media.
  • Patriarchal society confined women to domestic roles and motherhood, excluding them from economic and artistic sectors.
  • Beauty ideals shifted from the statuesque figures of the 1980s (Cindy Crawford, Elle Macpherson, Eva Herzigová, Claudia Schiffer) to extreme thinness in the 1990s-2000s (Kate Moss, Agyness Deyn).
  • The obsession with thinness in the 1990s-2000s contributed to eating disorders among adolescents.
  • Giulio Favotto's project 'PATERNITY RATIO' explores relationships, sexuality, and paternity while blurring gender boundaries.
  • Favotto's photography focuses on immaterial values rather than the centrality of the human body.
  • Progress has allowed more female photographers to tell their own stories, and activist movements for gender equality have been conveyed through art and fashion.

Entities

Artists

  • Peter Lindbergh
  • Mario Testino
  • Mario Sorrenti
  • Steven Meisel
  • Terry Richardson
  • Patrick Demarchelier
  • David LaChapelle
  • Giulio Favotto
  • Kate Moss
  • Agyness Deyn
  • Cindy Crawford
  • Elle Macpherson
  • Eva Herzigová
  • Claudia Schiffer
  • Elena Canesso

Institutions

  • Artribune

Locations

  • Padua
  • Italy
  • Shanghai
  • China
  • Guangzhou
  • Ca' Foscari University

Sources