Perfume as Art: From Duchamp to Contemporary Olfactory Installations
Federica Bianconi explores the transformation of perfume from a mere commercial item to a form of artistic expression. She cites Marcel Duchamp’s 'Air de Paris' from 1919 and 'Belle Haleine – Eau de Voilette' from 1921 as pivotal works. This sensory journey is mirrored in John Cage’s 1952 piece '4′33″' and Brian Eno’s soundscapes. Modern creators, including Giuseppe Penone, Olafur Eliasson, Massimo Bartolini, Ryan Gander, Sissel Tolaas, Ernesto Neto, Satoshi Hirose, and Sophie Calle (alongside Francis Kurkdjian’s 'L’Odeur de l’argent', 2003), utilize scent as a dynamic language. The upcoming exhibition 'Invisible Questions That Fill the Air' at Palazzo Loredan in Venice in 2024 will showcase this evolution, alongside insights into perfumers like Antoine Lie and Chandler Burr’s 'The Art of Scent 1889–2012'.
Key facts
- Marcel Duchamp created 'Air de Paris' in 1919 and 'Belle Haleine – Eau de Voilette' in 1921.
- John Cage's '4′33″' (1952) uses silence filled with ambient sounds and smells.
- Giuseppe Penone's 'Respirare l'ombra' (1999) features laurel cages.
- Massimo Bartolini's 'Mixing Parfums' (2000) uses two scented rooms and a revolving door.
- Sophie Calle collaborated with Francis Kurkdjian on 'L’Odeur de l’argent' (2003).
- The exhibition 'Invisible Questions That Fill the Air' took place in 2024 at Palazzo Loredan, Venice.
- Frédéric Malle launched Éditions de Parfums in 2000, crediting perfumers on labels.
- Chandler Burr curated 'The Art of Scent 1889–2012' at the Museum of Arts and Design.
- Pinacoteca di Brera introduced olfactory labels for a sensory experience.
- Lorenzo Villoresi founded the Museo di Arte della Profumeria in Florence.
Entities
Artists
- Federica Bianconi
- Marcel Duchamp
- John Cage
- Brian Eno
- Giuseppe Penone
- Olafur Eliasson
- Massimo Bartolini
- Ryan Gander
- Sissel Tolaas
- Ernesto Neto
- Satoshi Hirose
- Sophie Calle
- Francis Kurkdjian
- James Lee Byars
- Seung-taek Lee
- Dave Hickey
- Marilyn Monroe
- Gabrielle Chanel
- Ernest Beaux
- Edmond Roudnitska
- Jean Laporte
- Frédéric Malle
- Serge Lutens
- Christopher Chong
- Antoine Lie
- Prin Lomros
- Hiram Green
- Antoine Corticchiato
- Lorenzo Villoresi
- Maria Candida Gentile
- Antonio Alessandria
- Antonio Gardoni
- Meo Fusciuni
- Rubini
- Chandler Burr
Institutions
- Palazzo Loredan
- Fridericianum
- Shiseido
- Les Salons du Palais Royal
- Amouage
- Museo di Arte della Profumeria
- Boudoir 36
- Pinacoteca di Brera
- Museum of Arts and Design
- New York Times
- Artribune
- IUAV di Venezia
- MACRO di Roma
Locations
- Venice
- Italy
- Firenze
- Florence
- Catania
- Mantova
- Paris
- New York