Paris Fashion Week: Protests, Phygital Shows, and Galliano's Masterclass

During the chaotic Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2021, only 18 out of over 80 brands held physical runway shows. At Dior, a protester from Extinction Rebellion walked the runway with a banner reading 'We are all victims of fashion,' highlighting the industry's environmental impact. Thebe Magugu's film 'Counter Intelligence' explored apartheid-era espionage through surveillance-style footage and garments printed with scanned fingerprints and confessions. Marine Serre's sci-fi short 'Amor Fati' depicted an androgynous future with 18th-century ball gowns worn as harnesses. Balmain's Olivier Rousteing staged a phygital show with live audiences and virtual attendees like Jennifer Lopez and Juliette Binoche on LG OLED screens, featuring 100 looks including sustainable denim and recycled Swarovski crystals. The show incorporated a remix of The Weeknd's 'Blinding Lights' and a new Apple playlist. John Galliano closed the week with a 40-minute film for Maison Margiela, co-directed with Nick Knight, showcasing his couture reinterpretation of the label's conceptual roots. The season's overall message was 'the show must go on,' despite confusion over formats and protests.