New Generation of Chefs Reimagines Indonesian Cuisine in the Netherlands, Moving Beyond Colonial Rijsttafel

A new generation of chefs with Indonesian and Indo-Dutch heritage is shaking up the traditional rijsttafel in the Netherlands by highlighting regional dishes through upscale dining and eco-friendly methods. In 2023, Eduard Roesdi and Renu Lubis opened Nona Manis in Oegstgeest, offering a prix-fixe menu that moves away from rijsttafel to explore a variety of flavors from the Indonesian archipelago. Meanwhile, in Haarlem, Ipul Hadi and Raymond Draijer serve a daily changing nasi campur based on Javanese cuisine at Kokkie Londo. In November 2025, Servé Dierdorp and Jack Wolsten debuted Koki Putih in Amsterdam, a pop-up that uses local ingredients like fig leaves. Culinary historian Tom Hoogervorst notes that the evolution of diaspora cuisines often reflects ingredient availability, while Helena Smit from Eating Habits sees rijsttafel as a bridge between Indo-European heritage and modern culinary expressions. Recognized in 2022 as part of the Netherlands' National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage, chefs today emphasize authenticity and the importance of storytelling, with Dierdorp highlighting the need to confront colonial histories. This culinary evolution mirrors changes in Dutch tastes and cultural openness.