Modern Vanilla Perfumes: Architecture and Attitude in Fragrance
Vogue's exploration of contemporary vanilla fragrances highlights a trend toward refined formulations. Perfumers Aurélien Guichard of Matiere Premiere and Delphine Jelk from Guerlain emphasize texture and contrasts in their creations. Guichard's Vanilla Powder offers a light, airy experience, while Jelk blends vanilla with woody and musky elements. Featured in the article are ten fragrances: Guerlain's L'art & La Matière Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 ($660); Dior's Vanilla Diorama ($231-$495); Carolina Herrera's La Bomba ($99-$190); Matiere Premiere's Vanilla Powder ($230-$320); Victoria Beckham's 21:50 Rêverie ($200-$290); Liberty's LBTY Tana Meadows ($65-$330); Liis's Bo Eau de Parfum ($178); Henry Rose's Dave ($35-$120); Dries Van Noten's Camouflage ($400); and Phlur's Vanilla Skin ($32-$99). The piece also offers expert commentary on scent profiles and longevity.
Key facts
- Modern vanilla perfumes are moving away from sugary clichés toward sophisticated, textured compositions.
- Aurélien Guichard, founder of Matiere Premiere, created Vanilla Powder, which presents vanilla in an airy, luminous light.
- Delphine Jelk, creative director of fragrance at Guerlain, pairs vanilla with crisp woods, cleaner musks, or patchouli to give it 'architecture and attitude.'
- Guerlain's Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 uses hand-pollinated vanilla planifolia cold-soaked in alcohol for 21 days, with a 30% concentration of vanilla tincture and absolute.
- Dior's Vanilla Diorama was inspired by a dessert from Maxim's restaurant, created by perfumer François Demachy.
- Victoria Beckham's 21:50 Rêverie is described as 'the most animalic, rawest version of vanilla' by perfumer Jérôme Épinette.
- Henry Rose's Dave is named after Michelle Pfeiffer's husband, David E. Kelley, and is 'creamy yet spiked with tension.'
- Phlur's Vanilla Skin was a viral hit as a body mist and has a higher oil concentration in its eau de parfum version.
- The article lists ten best vanilla perfumes with prices ranging from $32 to $660.
- Vogue's testing methodology considers notes, projection, and wear time.
Entities
Artists
- Aurélien Guichard
- Delphine Jelk
- François Demachy
- Jérôme Épinette
- Hamid Merati-Kashani
- Alexandra Monet
- Clément Gavarry
- Michelle Pfeiffer
- David E. Kelley
- Christian Dior
Institutions
- Matiere Premiere
- Guerlain
- Dior
- Carolina Herrera
- Victoria Beckham
- Liberty
- Liis
- Henry Rose
- Dries Van Noten
- Phlur
- Vogue
Locations
- Madagascar
- Java
- California
- Tahiti
- Paris
- France