Menswear Fall 2022: Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks Recap

The major luxury groups adopted dissonant behaviors, alternating between live shows and streaming presentations. LVMH's Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior staged grand shows in Paris, with Vuitton honoring Virgil Abloh and Dior referencing its heritage. Fendi and Etro presented in Milan. Zegna, Prada, and Dolce&Gabbana took steps toward research: Zegna's Alessandro Sartori emphasized sustainability, Prada's Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons designed for all ages, and Dolce&Gabbana targeted Gen Z and Millennials. Smaller brands pushed further: JW Anderson (also LVMH-linked) explored digital play and gender fluidity, while A-Cold-Wall*'s Samuel Ross broke streetwear norms with a techno-apocalyptic vibe, previously shown at Art Basel Miami Beach. In Paris, Kenzo (LVMH, rebranded by Virgil Abloh, now designed by Nigo) stayed true to its codes. Y/Project's Glenn Martin collaborated with Jean Paul Gaultier, using trompe-l'oeil graphics. Lukhanyo Mdingi, a South African designer, showed color sensitivity and craftsmanship. Juun. J from Seoul presented 'street tailoring' with oversized layering. Notable absences from the fashion weeks included Burberry, Moncler, Versace, Armani, and Kering brands (Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen), raising questions about the future role of fashion weeks.