Matteo Thiela on his patented Bombix sewing technique and the link between fashion and art

Matteo Thiela, a self-taught fashion designer born in Milan in 1972 and now based in Turin, has patented a sewing technique called Bombix. The technique involves wrapping a single thread around a rotating mannequin to create an interwoven 'skin', which is then fixed with transparent or colored resins. Thiela describes it as a painterly approach that can be scaled for production by artisans or robots, making garment creation economical and sustainable. In an interview with Artribune, Thiela discusses his conceptual approach to fashion, his collaborations with Carla Sozzani for OZEN, the Zegna group, and Mariuccia Mandelli at Krizia. He emphasizes the link between art and fashion, viewing the consumer as a living work of art. Thiela rejected the label of 'artist' in Milan, preferring to be a designer. In Turin, he created a collection made of millions of loose silk threads with a single seam. He seeks collaborations with younger generations to keep his brand contemporary.