Mannequineur: The Unsung Craft Preserving Live Performance Memory

The Centre national du costume et de la scène (CNCS) in Moulins, Allier, France, is celebrating its 20th anniversary with the exhibition 'Tous en scène', which highlights the work of its often-overlooked staff, including the profession of mannequineur. Fabienne Sabarros-Helly, head of the mannequin department, explains that mannequineurs create custom supports for stage costumes, essentially reversing the work of a costumier. The CNCS, which has stored and conserved thousands of retired stage costumes since 2006, uses between 800 and 900 mannequins in its collection. Sabarros-Helly describes the meticulous process of adjusting mannequins to match the original wearer's silhouette and attitude, using soft, chemical-free materials to avoid damaging the costumes. She notes the physical demands of the job, including lifting heavy costumes and manipulating mannequins, as well as the emotional connection she develops with the pieces, recalling a magical moment when dressing a costume for a Christian Lacroix exhibition. Despite nearly 20 years at the CNCS, she remains passionate about her work. In France, there are only about fifteen mannequineurs working in a handful of museums. The anniversary exhibition, which runs through 2026, showcases some of the CNCS's treasures and aims to raise awareness of these essential but underrecognized roles.