Italian fashion press accused of uncritical enthusiasm during fashion weeks

Aldo Premoli critiques the Italian and international fashion press for its uncritical, effusive coverage of fashion weeks, arguing that journalists, bloggers, and influencers consistently describe collections as "bellissimo" and "geniale" without substantive analysis. He contrasts this with Christopher Bailey, former Burberry CEO, who during London Fashion Week described the industry as "confused" and in need of serious self-examination. Premoli points to coverage of Gucci's Fall/Winter 2018-2019 show, which was praised for its cyborg theme inspired by Donna Haraway, but questions whether the press is merely pandering to advertisers. He also criticizes a review of the exhibition "Italiana" at Triennale Milano, which he claims uncritically celebrates fashion photography's link to feminism and gender equality. The article, published in 2018, reflects on the economic importance of Italian fashion (+6.9% in 2017) and the media's failure to ask hard questions.