Iris van Herpen's Spring/Summer 2021 Collection Blends Nature and Technology

Iris van Herpen presented her spring/summer 2021 haute couture collection, exploring the relationship between nature and technology. Inspired by Merlin Sheldrake's book "Entangled Life," the collection references fungal structures like mycelium and gills, with pleating echoing mushroom gills. The palette is earthy: browns, warm reds, purples, and milky whites. Van Herpen collaborated with Parley for the Oceans, using Ocean Plastic® fabric made from recycled marine debris, which she claims matches organic silk in quality. The collection includes 3D-printed unique pieces. Van Herpen states, "Currently it's about wanting to decide, it's no longer a question of higher or lower quality. Fundamentally, there are not many reasons not to use sustainable materials, apart from changing mentality." The designer has long aligned fashion with science and nature, citing Leonardo da Vinci's writings as an influence since her first collection in 2008. This collection marks a shift toward pieces that feel more harmonious with models' bodies. Van Herpen views haute couture as a research laboratory free from mass production constraints. The article also notes other Paris presentations: Viktor&Rolf's rave-couture focusing on youth and upcycling, and Alber Elbaz's AZ Factory debut with joyful, sustainable techno-couture.