Inside Paul Smith’s Archive: 5,000 Garments Tell the Story of British Fashion
Wallpaper* delves into the Paul Smith Archive located in Nottingham, which has been organized by the Paul Smith Foundation since 2020. Situated at the company’s headquarters, this archive boasts over 5,000 items, including the bicycle that Smith had an accident on at the age of 17. Having celebrated his 80th birthday in July, Smith launched his first store on Byard Lane in 1970 after his tenure at Birdcage. His inaugural menswear collection was showcased in Paris in 1976. Among the archive's highlights are a spaghetti-printed shirt from the 1980s and a custom wedding suit from 1970. Although the Byard Lane shop closed in 2017, the flagship in Nottingham continues to operate. Recently, Smith's menswear presentations in Milan featured partnerships with Sam Cotton. The Foundation also aids up-and-coming designers and visual artists. This article appears in the September 2026 Style Issue.
Key facts
- Paul Smith opened his first store in 1970 on Byard Lane, Nottingham.
- He worked at Birdcage under Janet Campbell before launching his own line.
- His debut menswear show was in Paris in 1976.
- Smith celebrated his 80th birthday in July this year.
- The original Byard Lane shop closed in 2017.
- The Nottingham flagship opened in 2005 inside Grade II-listed Willoughby House.
- Paul Smith's Foundation has catalogued over 5,000 garments and objects since 2020.
- The archive includes a spaghetti-print shirt from the 1980s and a 1970 wedding suit.
- David Bowie wore custom ensembles by Paul Smith.
- Recent menswear shows have moved to Milan; A/W 2026 collection was made with Sam Cotton.
- The Foundation runs residencies for emerging fashion designers and visual artists.
Entities
Artists
- Paul Smith
- Sam Cotton
- Janet Campbell
- David Bowie
- Lottie Morris
- Thomas Bunce
- Jon Johnson
- Kachi Katsuya
- Lydia Ward-Smith
- Emmet Banahan
- Louis Boyagis
- André Jacques
- Hannah Tindle
Institutions
- Paul Smith's Foundation
- Birdcage
- Comme des Garçons
- Commission
- Wallpaper*
- Viva London
- Bumble and Bumble
- Dior
- Amelia Studios
- Willoughby House
Locations
- Nottingham
- Byard Lane
- Paris
- Rue de Vaugirard
- Milan
- London
- Beeston
- Nottinghamshire
- Japan
- Midlands