ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Industrial Hemp as a Sustainable Alternative to Cotton in Fashion

other · 2026-05-04

Industrial hemp (Cannabis Sativa) has been used for fiber for at least 10,000 years, but confusion with psychoactive cannabis has hindered its adoption. The 2018 US Farm Bill legalized its cultivation, positioning hemp as a potential rival to cotton. Cotton farming in the US covers 10 million acres (25.37% of agricultural land), making the US the third-largest producer after India and China. 73% of US cotton goes to apparel, generating $385.7 billion in profit, but at severe environmental cost: monoculture depletes soil, GMO cotton leaves persistent enzymes reducing biodiversity, and production requires 8,000 liters of water per kilogram, 16% of global insecticides, and 6% of pesticides. Hemp requires less than one-third the water, far fewer pesticides and insecticides, and yields 220% more fiber. Brands like Levi's (Wellthread x Outernown Spring/Summer 2019) use 'cottonized hemp' for denim, touting conscious choice. Rick Owens incorporated hemp in Fall/Winter 2011 and 2018 collections for its sustainability and unique rough texture. The article argues that luxury conglomerates move too slowly on sustainability, fearing consumer scrutiny, and calls for media and consumer pressure to accelerate change.

Key facts

  • Industrial hemp has been used for fiber for at least 10,000 years.
  • The 2018 US Farm Bill legalized industrial hemp cultivation in the US.
  • Cotton farming in the US covers 10 million acres, 25.37% of agricultural land.
  • Cotton apparel generates $385.7 billion in profit.
  • Cotton requires 8,000 liters of water per kilogram.
  • Cotton uses 16% of global insecticides and 6% of pesticides.
  • Hemp requires less than one-third the water of cotton.
  • Hemp produces 220% more fiber than cotton per acre.

Entities

Artists

  • Rick Owens

Institutions

  • Levi's
  • Artribune Magazine

Locations

  • United States
  • India
  • China

Sources