Hermès scarf collecting: from £150 vintage finds to rare 'grails' fetching thousands

Hermès, founded in Paris in 1837 as a harness maker, released its first scarf, Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches, in 1937. Since then, over 300 illustrators have created thousands of designs, with about 40 new styles released annually. Vintage dealer Abigail Goodman notes a surge in collector interest over the past five years. While new scarves retail from £395, second-hand non-rare pieces cost £150–£200, with the original orange box adding up to 25% value, according to Ali Orr of Nearly New Cashmere Co. Rare 'grails' by Texan artist Kermit Oliver (1950s cowboy scenes) command higher prices; Orr sold Kachinas for £375 and Faune et Flore du Texas for £450. Other sought-after designers include Hugo Grygkar (first in-house designer), Xavier de Poret (animal motifs), and Annie Faivre (hidden monkeys). Didier Ludot, former vintage couturier, amassed nearly 1,000 scarves, selling 700 at Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr in 2021; he highlights private-event scarves as especially rare. Collectors Patricia Pingree-Clouet and Eva Wirth emphasize personal connection. Fakes are common; Orr advises buying from reputable sources and checking for hand-rolled hems, copyright marks, and care labels. The reference work Carrés d'Art by Geneviève Fontan (£300) catalogs nearly every Hermès scarf.