H&M's Green Machine and GenZ's Resale Trend Reshape Fashion Sustainability

H&M's Green Machine, a €5.8 million technology developed with the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel since 2016, can separate cotton and polyester blends at scale using heat, water, and citric acid. Monki, H&M's GenZ-focused brand, sold out a 120-piece capsule collection made with recycled fibers from this process, including a €40 hoodie and €20 sweatpants. However, Green Machine is not a silver bullet: regenerated polyester still releases microfibers, and systemic issues like infrastructure and legislation persist. H&M faces ongoing criticism from environmental groups. Meanwhile, small designers like Ancuta Sarca in London and Duran Lantink in Amsterdam upcycle deadstock. Sarca reworks Nike sneakers but now uses recycled fabrics from UK factories due to supply limits. Lantink, a 2019 LVMH Prize finalist, creates hybrid pieces from damaged or unsold items from Browns, Joyce, and H Lorenzo, often seeking brand approval. The resale market grows: luxury watchmaker Richard Mille opened second-hand boutiques in Tokyo's Ginza, Singapore's Ngee Ann City, and London's Mayfair, with specialist advisors. Gucci joined The RealReal following Burberry and Stella McCartney. GenZ's affinity for resale accelerated the trend during the pandemic.