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Gucci debuts first collection without Alessandro Michele at Milan Men's Fashion Week 2023

other · 2026-04-27

Gucci presented its first runway show without Alessandro Michele at Milan Men's Fashion Week 2023, held at its Via Mecenate 77 hub. The collection, designed by the in-house style office, marks a transitional phase as the brand awaits a new creative director, expected to be announced during Women's Fashion Week 2023. The show featured a stripped-down arena with a live performance by Ceramic Dogs, contrasting with Michele's maximalist spectacles. The collection draws on 1970s androgynous aesthetics, including paillettes, skinny jeans, sculptural oversized outerwear, and draped skirts. Accessories revisit house icons with piston closures, horsebits, and crosses on bags and shoes like slippers, loafers, and oversized Princetown. The monogram appears in crystal and pastel tones on multifunctional garments with removable elements. Nostalgia is evoked through vintage-inspired foulards on bags and denim, and early 2000s motorcyclist gear. Notable pieces include 'fuel-stained' logo denim referencing the 1953 New York store opening, deconstructed sportswear, and a colorful soft motorcyclist boot. The collection emphasizes trompe-l'oeil effects, such as joggers in light leather and a caban embroidered with multidimensional paillettes. Michele announced his departure from Gucci, owned by Kering, on November 23, 2022, after seven years, citing differing perspectives.

Key facts

  • Gucci showed at Milan Men's Fashion Week 2023 at Via Mecenate 77
  • First runway without Alessandro Michele
  • Collection designed by the style office
  • New creative director expected during Women's Fashion Week 2023
  • Arena featured live music by Ceramic Dogs
  • Collection references 1970s androgynous style
  • Accessories include piston closures, horsebits, crosses
  • Monogram in crystal and pastel tones
  • Garments have removable elements for multifunctionality
  • Vintage-inspired foulards on bags and denim
  • Early 2000s motorcyclist influences
  • 'Fuel-stained' logo denim references 1953 New York store
  • Trompe-l'oeil effects: leather joggers, paillette-embroidered caban
  • Alessandro Michele left Gucci on November 23, 2022
  • Gucci is owned by Kering

Entities

Artists

  • Alessandro Michele
  • Ceramic Dogs

Institutions

  • Gucci
  • Kering
  • Artribune

Locations

  • Milan
  • Italy
  • Via Mecenate 77
  • New York

Sources