ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Group Exhibition 'Costume: Written Clothing' Explores Artistic Garments as Critical Devices

opinion-review · 2026-04-20

Curated by Claire Jackson, the exhibition 'Costume: Written Clothing' delves into the significance of costume in performance, sculpture, and imagery, drawing inspiration from Roland Barthes's 1967 notion of 'written clothing.' It showcases works by contemporary artists, including Matthew Darbyshire's 'Standardised Production Clothing Versions 1–10' (2009), Alexis Marguerite Teplin's 'Cuff and Collar' (2010), and Pablo Bronstein's 'Walker' (2010). Additionally, it features Sarah Wright's inkjet prints and Steven Cairns's sculptural collage. Highlights include the costume from 'Think, Think Thingamajig' (2006) by Joanne Tatham and Tom O'Sullivan, as well as Clare Stephenson and Sophie Macpherson's 'Untitled (Tracksuit)' (2012) and 'Untitled (Opera Cloak)' (2012). The exhibition, while showcasing diverse approaches to costume, sometimes lacks thematic unity. This review was published in ArtReview's September 2013 issue.

Key facts

  • Exhibition 'Costume: Written Clothing' is a group show curated by Claire Jackson
  • Draws on Roland Barthes's 1967 concept of 'written clothing' from 'The Fashion System'
  • Includes works by Matthew Darbyshire, Alexis Marguerite Teplin, Pablo Bronstein, Sarah Wright, Steven Cairns, Joanne Tatham, Tom O'Sullivan, Clare Stephenson, and Sophie Macpherson
  • Features diverse media: garments on mannequins, oil painting, video, inkjet prints, sculptural collage/assemblage
  • Examines costume as device for investigating relationships between performance, image, and sculpture
  • Some works revisit performance relics, engaging with Amelia Jones's concept of 'presence in absentia'
  • Review originally published in September 2013 issue of ArtReview
  • Theodor Adorno noted in 'Aesthetic Theory' (1970) that 'great artists since Baudelaire were in conspiracy with fashion'

Entities

Artists

  • Theodor Adorno
  • Baroness Elsa von Freytag-Loringhoven
  • Sonia Delaunay
  • Theo van Doesburg
  • Hans Arp
  • Lady Gaga
  • Jana Sterbak
  • Roland Barthes
  • Claire Jackson
  • John Baldessari
  • Matthew Darbyshire
  • Alexis Marguerite Teplin
  • Pablo Bronstein
  • Sarah Wright
  • Steven Cairns
  • Amelia Jones
  • Joanne Tatham
  • Tom O'Sullivan
  • Clare Stephenson
  • Sophie Macpherson

Institutions

  • ArtReview

Sources