ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Gemma Carlotta Surgo on founding genderless brand All Hours

other · 2026-04-26

Gemma Carlotta Surgo, a 32-year-old designer from Bari, launched her genderless fashion brand All Hours on September 12, 2023, after years of modeling and a desire to create clothing that reflected her own vision. The brand, produced entirely in Puglia, emphasizes timelessness, versatility, and inclusivity, with only three sizes currently due to production costs. Surgo cites her modeling career as instrumental, allowing her to observe styling and material choices firsthand. Her debut Fall Winter 2023-24 collection features oversized silhouettes, wide collars and cuffs, and rigid structures inspired by Schiaparelli. All Hours has already gained attention from Italian musicians: Mr. Rain wore the mesh knit butter piece on his album cover, and Santi Francesi used Surgo's designs in their Sanremo music video. Surgo manages the brand's social media herself and hopes to one day dress Måneskin. She works alongside her partner Giuseppe, who handles administration, while she focuses on the artistic side. The brand's core values reject societal stereotypes and aim to offer freedom of expression through clothing.

Key facts

  • Gemma Carlotta Surgo launched All Hours on September 12, 2023
  • The brand is genderless and produced 100% in Puglia, Italy
  • Surgo started modeling at age 12 in Bari
  • She lived in Rome for three years and Milan for four years before returning to Puglia
  • All Hours currently offers only three sizes due to high production costs
  • Mr. Rain wore the mesh knit butter piece on his album cover
  • Santi Francesi used All Hours clothing in their Sanremo music video
  • Surgo manages the brand's social media personally

Entities

Artists

  • Gemma Carlotta Surgo
  • Mr. Rain
  • Santi Francesi
  • Måneskin
  • Giuseppe (partner)
  • Schiaparelli

Institutions

  • All Hours
  • Artribune

Locations

  • Puglia
  • Italy
  • Bari
  • Rome
  • Milan

Sources