Gary Hume designs set for Burberry Spring/Summer 2025 show at London's National Theatre

For its Spring/Summer 2025 runway show on September 16, Burberry commissioned British artist Gary Hume to create the set. The backdrop was inspired by Hume's 1990 installation 'Bays,' first shown at the East Country Yard Show in London's Docklands. Hume's set featured large water-resistant panels with rectangular cutouts, echoing the functional modernist hospital doors that recurred in his late-1980s and 1990s paintings. Creative director Daniel Lee contacted Hume specifically about 'Bays,' a work the artist said had not been widely seen. The collection itself blended British heritage with summer adventure: cropped rainwear, deconstructed trench coats in lightweight silk poplin and linen, weathered materials, protective capes and parkas, ankle-button trousers, and layered polo collars under leather jackets. Burberry Check appeared on jackets, trousers, and bags. The show reinforced Burberry's ongoing commitment to British art, following collaborations with Sarah Lucas at Tate Britain, John Akomfrah for the Venice Biennale, and support for the Royal Academy of Arts.