Gabriele Mayer's costume archive at Galleria Nazionale di Roma

The Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea in Rome holds the visual archive of costume designer Gabriele Pacchia, known as Mayer (born 1940). His work for Italian cinema and television stars reflects shifting societal norms around female representation. In the 1970s, variety shows like Milleluci featured Mina and Raffaella Carrà, whose costumes challenged censorship. Carrà's bare midriff during the Tuca Tuca dance caused scandal but signaled liberation. By 1995, Mediaset's Il Bagaglino pushed further with sensual attire, while earlier Rai had exiled Mina for having a child out of wedlock. Mayer, who worked under masters Giulio Coltellacci, Maria De Matteis, and Piero Gherardi, dressed icons like Claudia Cardinale (including a tunic she wore to meet Pope Paul VI in 1967). He notes that male directors like Federico Fellini shaped female imagery, emphasizing sensuality. Today, Mayer laments a flattening of female characters on TV due to budget cuts and lack of alternatives, with only singers retaining expressive freedom. The article includes photography by Elena Costa, curated by Alessia Caliendo.