ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

From Japanese socks to high-fashion shoes: the story of Tabi

cultural-heritage · 2026-04-27

The Tabi shoe, with its distinctive split-toe design, originated as socks in 15th-century Japan during trade with China. Initially worn by the upper class, color indicated social hierarchy: gold and violet for nobility, blue and white for workers. Samurai could wear all colors except those reserved for the elite. In 1921, entrepreneur Tokujirō Ishibashi added a rubber sole to create Jika-Tabi work boots for laborers. The design entered Western fashion in 1988 when Martin Margiela debuted his first collection featuring Tabi boots, painted red to leave visible footprints. Margiela's Tabi became a brand symbol, spawning numerous variants from sneakers to ballet flats. Prada introduced soft leather Tabi in spring 2013, while Thom Browne paired Tabi socks with samurai suits. Despite initial public ridicule—exemplified by harsh reactions to Sarah Jessica Parker wearing them in 2015—Tabi shoes have recently gained cult status, going viral on social media and becoming coveted items.

Key facts

  • Tabi originated as socks in 15th-century Japan
  • Color indicated social hierarchy: gold/violet for nobility, blue/white for workers
  • Samurai could wear all colors except those of the upper class
  • Tokujirō Ishibashi created Jika-Tabi work boots in 1921 by adding a rubber sole
  • Martin Margiela debuted Tabi shoes in his first collection in 1988
  • First Tabi shoes were painted red to leave visible footprints
  • Prada introduced Tabi in spring 2013 collection
  • Sarah Jessica Parker faced public ridicule for wearing Tabi in 2015

Entities

Artists

  • Martin Margiela
  • Sarah Jessica Parker
  • Tokujirō Ishibashi
  • Shigeki Tanakanon
  • Thom Browne

Institutions

  • Maison Margiela
  • Prada
  • Onitsuka
  • Asics
  • Artribune

Locations

  • Japan
  • China
  • United States
  • Boston

Sources