France leads sustainable fashion legislation as Marine Serre channels Anselm Kiefer
The men's fashion shows for Autumn/Winter 2023 in Milan and Paris wrapped up on January 22, 2023, with a strong focus on sustainability. Marine Serre showcased towers made from dead stock fabrics, utilizing unsold bags, denim, and reclaimed materials to highlight themes of transformation and repair. In France, there is a move toward mandatory legislation for supply chain traceability and transparent labeling to address greenwashing, with similar efforts underway in California (Senate Bill 62), Washington (Fabric Act), and New York (Fashion Act). Meanwhile, Italy remains in the discussion phase. The competition in luxury fashion continues, with LVMH (Bernard Arnault) managing Louis Vuitton and Dior Homme (Kim Jones), while Kering (François-Henri Pinault) emphasizes Saint Laurent (Anthony Vaccarello). Notably, Prada stands as the only significant Italian entity listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange.
Key facts
- Milan shows lasted five days, Paris shows six days, ending January 22, 2023
- Marine Serre's show featured three towers of dead stock referencing Anselm Kiefer's 'The Seven Heavenly Palaces'
- Serre used unsold bags, denim, chemical-free leather, and reclaimed upholstery fabrics
- France is enacting binding legislation on supply chain traceability, labeling, and EPR
- US states California, Washington, and New York have introduced similar bills
- Italy has only held conferences with no concrete legislative action
- LVMH controls Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme (Kim Jones), Bottega Veneta
- Kering relies on Saint Laurent (Anthony Vaccarello), Loewe (JW Anderson), Givenchy (Matthew Williams)
Entities
Artists
- Marine Serre
- Anselm Kiefer
- Kim Jones
- Anthony Vaccarello
- JW Anderson
- Matthew Williams
- Alessandro Michele
- Rei Kawakubo
- Yohji Yamamoto
- Junya Watanabe
- Nigo
- Chitose Abe
- Robert Pattinson
- Gwendoline Christie
- T.S. Eliot
- Rosalía
Institutions
- Louis Vuitton
- Dior Homme
- Bottega Veneta
- Saint Laurent
- Loewe
- Givenchy
- Gucci
- Prada
- Hermès
- Armani
- Rick Owens
- Fendi
- Undercover
- LVMH
- Kering
- Pirelli HangarBicocca
- Bourse de Commerce
- Louvre
- Hong Kong Stock Exchange
- Artribune
Locations
- Milan
- Italy
- Paris
- France
- California
- United States
- Washington
- New York
- Hong Kong