Food Review's Demise: TikTok Hyperbole vs. Descriptive Writing
A Slate article examines the decline of traditional food criticism in favor of short-form video reviews on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. The author contrasts vague, hyperbolic descriptors like "fire" and "game changer" used by influencers with the evocative prose of late critic Jonathan Gold and British critic Will Self. Lexicographer Grant Barrett notes that video effectively conveys visual and auditory cues, reducing the need for descriptive language. Food writer Cathy Chaplin sees influencer culture as a natural evolution from early food blogs, though she links virality to decreased narrative substance. A 2025 report finds 80% of consumers distrust inauthentic influencers. Despite the rise of video, the author finds hope in writer-owned food newsletters like Gourmet and Best Food Blog, while acknowledging the challenge of competing for attention. The piece reflects on the loss of sensory imagination in food writing, yet concedes that video reviews are effective.
Key facts
- The article was published on Slate in May 2026.
- Influencers frequently use vague terms like 'fire', 'game changer', and 'vibe'.
- Jonathan Gold's writing on eating live shrimp is cited as an example of evocative food criticism.
- Will Self's 1995 review of the Ark restaurant described fish as tasting 'of despair'.
- Grant Barrett, a lexicographer, says video reduces the need for descriptive language.
- Cathy Chaplin, former Eater LA editor, links food bloggers of the early 2000s to today's influencers.
- A 2025 report by BBB National Programs found 80% of consumers distrust inauthentic influencers.
- The author subscribes to newsletters like Vittles, Gourmet, and Best Food Blog.
Entities
Artists
- Jonathan Gold
- Will Self
- Cathy Chaplin
- Tamar Wittenberg
- Grant Barrett
- Dave Portnoy
- Keith Lee
- Corre Larkin
- Ruth Reichl
Institutions
- Slate
- Eater Los Angeles
- New York Times
- Substack
- BBB National Programs
- National Advertising Division
- Barstool Sports
- Vittles
- Gourmet
- Best Food Blog
- Ravenous
Locations
- Jacksonville
- Tokyo
- Los Angeles