Fast Fashion's Deception: How Shein and Temu Are Undermining the Luxury Industry
In an article for Artribune, Aldo Premoli examines how fast fashion is affecting luxury brands, beginning with the French government's decision to block Shein's website over the sale of pedopornographic dolls. Companies such as H&M (1974), Inditex (1985), and Uniqlo (2001) focus on quick production and affordability, threatening the integrity of established luxury brands. According to a report from McKinsey, Inditex has surpassed LVMH in profitability. While investigations are ongoing into the labor practices of brands like Prada and Gucci, the issues associated with fast fashion dominate the conversation. Ultra-fast fashion, with Shein (2008) and Temu (2015) at the forefront, worsens unsustainable practices. By 2026, the European Council intends to eliminate duty exemptions for small parcels, as textile waste is projected to hit 120 million tons in 2024. Despite ethical dilemmas, traditional luxury brands might consider adopting fast fashion strategies.
Key facts
- French government blocked Shein's website after Paris Prosecutor's Office found pedopornographic inflatable dolls on the platform.
- Fast fashion giants H&M (1974), Inditex (1985), and Uniqlo (2001 in Europe) operate on a store-first, product-second model.
- Inditex overtook LVMH as the world's most profitable brand per McKinsey's State of Fashion 2026.
- H&M's revenue rivals Louis Vuitton and Dior combined; Uniqlo's Fast Retailing reaches $19 billion vs Kering's $17 billion.
- Milan Prosecutor's Office investigations involved Armani, Brunello Cucinelli, Tod's, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Versace, Gucci, Missoni, Ferragamo, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Pinko, Coccinelle, Adidas, Alexander McQueen Italia, and Off-White for labor irregularities.
- Shein (founded 2008, Nanjing, now Singapore) matched Inditex's 2024 revenue using micro-lots and thousands of suppliers.
- Temu (DD Holdings Inc., founded 2015) had $50 billion revenue in 2024 as a pure marketplace with even lower prices.
- European Council abolished duty exemption for small parcels from non-EU countries on November 13, 2025, effective 2026.
- 12 million duty-free packages circulated daily in Europe in 2024, double 2023 and triple 2022.
- BCG report: textile waste reached 120 million tons in 2024, over 80% landfilled or incinerated, less than 1% recycled.
Entities
Artists
- Aldo Premoli
Institutions
- Artribune
- McKinsey
- Boston Consulting Group (BCG)
- European Council
- Paris Prosecutor's Office
- Milan Prosecutor's Office
- H&M
- Inditex
- Zara
- Massimo Dutti
- Bershka
- Pull&Bear
- Oysho
- Lefties
- Stradivarius
- Uniqlo
- Fast Retailing Co., Ltd.
- LVMH
- Louis Vuitton
- Dior
- Kering
- Prada Group
- Armani
- Brunello Cucinelli
- Tod's
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Prada
- Versace
- Gucci
- Missoni
- Ferragamo
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Givenchy
- Pinko
- Coccinelle
- Adidas
- Alexander McQueen Italia
- Off-White
- Shein
- Temu
- DD Holdings Inc.
- Pinduoduo
Locations
- France
- Paris
- China
- Nanjing
- Singapore
- Sweden
- Spain
- Japan
- Italy
- Milan
- Europe
- Atacama Desert
- Africa