ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Fashion weeks proceed amid global crises and luxury's existential questions

opinion-review · 2026-04-26

The article examines the contradiction between the luxury fashion industry's spectacular shows and the concurrent global crises, including US tariff policies, the US-Israel bombing of Iran, and Middle East conflict. Despite the turmoil, Milan Fashion Week proceeded with 62 physical and digital shows and 73 presentations, followed by Paris with 68 shows and 31 presentations. The author questions whether luxury's grandeur still inspires desire when juxtaposed with images of destruction, and notes that the desire for status symbols has waned due to second-hand markets, imitations, and dupes. The industry faces a transformation requiring new forms of experimentation and social capital, yet some CEOs and artistic directors remain oblivious, clinging to outdated rhetoric. The piece is an opinion-review by Aldo Premoli, published on Artribune.

Key facts

  • US President announced tariff policy on February 23, 2025, after Supreme Court veto.
  • London Fashion Week ended February 23, Milan Fashion Week began February 24.
  • Winter Olympics closed February 22.
  • USA and Israel began bombing Iran on February 28, triggering Middle East conflict.
  • Milan Fashion Week had 62 shows (physical and digital) and 73 presentations.
  • Paris Fashion Week had 68 physical or digital shows and 31 presentations.
  • Dior show at Jardin des Tuileries, Saint Laurent at Place du Trocadéro, Balenciaga with Pier Paolo Piccioli and Sam Levison, Chanel at Grand Palais, Louis Vuitton at Cour Carrée du Louvre.
  • Author Aldo Premoli is former director of L'Uomo Vogue (1989-2000) and founder of Apstudio.

Entities

Artists

  • Aldo Premoli
  • Pier Paolo Piccioli
  • Sam Levison

Institutions

  • Artribune
  • Dior
  • Saint Laurent
  • Balenciaga
  • Chanel
  • Louis Vuitton
  • L'Uomo Vogue
  • Apstudio
  • Supreme Court
  • USA
  • Israel
  • Iran

Locations

  • Milan
  • Italy
  • Paris
  • France
  • London
  • UK
  • New York
  • USA
  • Cernobbio
  • Sicily
  • Middle East
  • Jardin des Tuileries
  • Place du Trocadéro
  • Grand Palais
  • Cour Carrée du Louvre

Sources