Fashion Weeks in Crisis: Brands Abandon Traditional Calendars
The Fall/Winter 2021 edition of New York Fashion Week took place online starting February 14, with notable absences from designers such as Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Marc Jacobs. Just hours before his show, Tom Ford decided to postpone his presentation. The luxury goods sector has felt the effects of the pandemic, with Kering and LVMH showing stronger performance. Versace opted to showcase in Paris rather than Milan, while Gucci and Bottega Veneta will unveil their collections at their own pace. Pieter Mulier, who assumed leadership at Azzedine Alaïa on February 5, plans to debut his Spring/Summer 2022 collection "when it is ready." Brands are increasingly prioritizing sustainability, as seen in Gabriela Hearst's collection featuring QR codes for material tracking and Vivienne Westwood's environmentally conscious look book released on February 18.
Key facts
- New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021 was entirely digital, starting February 14.
- Major absent brands: Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera.
- Tom Ford postponed his show hours before debut.
- Versace will show in Paris instead of Milan.
- Gucci and Bottega Veneta (Kering) will show on their own schedule.
- Pieter Mulier (Azzedine Alaïa) will present his first collection when ready.
- Gabriela Hearst's collection includes digital identities via QR codes for transparency.
- Vivienne Westwood's collection uses 90% low-impact materials and features Boucher's painting.
- Brands are increasingly ignoring fashion week calendars, like fast fashion and sportswear companies.
- Phoebe Philo canceled a Celine show in 2012 due to pregnancy; Raf Simons left Dior in 2015; Narciso Rodriguez scaled back in 2018.
Entities
Artists
- Ralph Lauren
- Michael Kors
- Marc Jacobs
- Oscar de la Renta
- Carolina Herrera
- Tom Ford
- Pieter Mulier
- Azzedine Alaïa
- Phoebe Philo
- Raf Simons
- Miuccia Prada
- Narciso Rodriguez
- Gabriela Hearst
- Vivienne Westwood
- François Boucher
Institutions
- Council of Fashion Designers of America
- Kering
- LVMH
- Richemont
- Dior
- Celine
- Versace
- Gucci
- Bottega Veneta
- Azzedine Alaïa
- H&M
- Target
- PVH Corp
- Microsoft
- Waste Management
- Wallace Collection
- Nike
- Adidas
- Reebok
Locations
- New York
- United States
- Milan
- Italy
- Paris
- France
- London
- United Kingdom
- Cernobbio
- Sicily
- New York City