Fashion Week NY & London: Erdem, Peter Do, Collina Strada, Burberry

The article reviews highlights from the New York and London Fashion Weeks, focusing on nine positive outcomes and one controversial trend. Erdem Maralioglu presented a collection at the British Museum inspired by Deborah Cavendish, featuring gowns with tent fabric from Chatsworth House and shoes resembling chicken feet. JW Anderson used Plastilina, invented in Northern Ireland (his birthplace), for a hoodie and shorts, with cargo pants and leather jackets. Phoebe English continues her zero-waste activism. Peter Do debuted at Helmut Lang with tailored pants, jackets, and crombie coats, referencing bondage clubs. Stefan Cooke showed gender-fluid menswear with intricate accessories, including 27 Mulberry bags from the Mulberry Exchange circularity program. Hillary Taymour used AI to generate Collina Strada's collection, teaching an algorithm her preferences over seven weeks. Gabriela Hearst presented sustainable luxury with a poncho and dress hand-crocheted by Bolivian artisans, inspired by Haitian artist Levoy Exil. Daniel Lee for Burberry at Highbury Fields featured slim silhouettes, asymmetric lapels, and double-breasted suits. The emerging trend of visible underwear, pioneered by Poster Girl's Francesca Capper and Natashia Somerville, is noted with concern.