Fashion Week Fall 2022: The Return of the Dress and Over-the-Top Opulence
Recent Fashion Weeks held in Milan, New York, London, and Paris have showcased a convergence of luxury ready-to-wear and haute couture. The collections displayed intricate cuts, generous volumes, and striking makeup, highlighting 'over' styles that evoke the 1980s. The models, characterized by their tall and slender physiques, signaled a revival of fantastical silhouettes, while concepts like fluidity and sustainability became less prominent. The dress emerged as a focal point, contrasting with Gen Z's inclination for eclectic combinations. Designers such as Miuccia Prada, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Donatella Versace emphasized the qualities of fabrics. Notably, Jun Takahashi debuted four couture-like gowns, and Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton highlighted oversized elements, reflecting fashion's commentary on societal changes, as discussed in Emanuela Mora's 'Geografie della moda.'
Key facts
- The boundary between luxury prêt-à-porter and haute couture is blurring.
- Collections featured complex cuts, abundant volumes, precious materials, oversized bijoux, boudoir footwear, and elaborate makeup.
- The term 'over' from the 1980s describes the trend.
- Models were exclusively tall, extremely thin, and young.
- Terms like fluid, inclusive, and sustainable have lost media appeal.
- The dress became the protagonist, negating Gen Z's mix-and-match separates.
- Miuccia Prada mentioned 'simplification' but also used long fake lashes.
- Jun Takahashi (Undercover) presented four couture-like dresses for the first time.
- Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton, with Philippe Parreno, oversized details; Parreno created a giant vermilion flower sculpture at the Louvre.
- Emanuela Mora's book 'Geografie della moda' discusses fashion's spatial diffusion of dreamlike bodies.
Entities
Artists
- Miuccia Prada
- Raf Simons
- Maria Grazia Chiuri
- Pier Paolo Piccioli
- Pieter Mulier
- Domenico Dolce
- Donatella Versace
- Glenn Martens
- Yamamoto
- Watanabe
- Rei Kawakubo
- Jun Takahashi
- Hillary Taymor
- Jonathan Anderson
- Rick Owens
- Demna Gvasalia
- Nicolas Ghesquière
- Philippe Parreno
- Emanuela Mora
Institutions
- Prada
- Christian Dior
- Valentino
- Alaïa
- Dolce&Gabbana
- Versace
- Diesel
- Comme des Garçons
- Undercover
- Collina Strada
- Loewe
- Balenciaga
- Thom Browne
- Louis Vuitton
- LVMH
- Louvre
- Artribune
Locations
- Milan
- Italy
- New York
- United States
- London
- United Kingdom
- Paris
- France
- Cour Carrée
- Louvre