Fashion's Return to Handmade Gestures and Artistic Collaboration in Spring 2015 Collections
In November 2013, Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester revealed her exit from her brand through a handwritten PDF, signaling a revival of handcrafted elements in fashion. Raf Simons integrated Andy Warhol's illustrations into Christian Dior's collection, highlighting the significance of "hand work and personal signature." Howard Tangye remarked that Dior regarded Warhol's pieces as precious jewelry. For the Spring/Summer 2014 season, Phoebe Philo at Céline drew inspiration from Brassaï's graffiti photography for her prints. Miuccia Prada engaged artists to create hand-painted murals at Fondazione Prada, promoting collaborative artistic endeavors. Curator Michael Rock pointed out the distinctive atmosphere produced by this initiative. Julie Verhoeven critiqued "digital mirror-image trickery," while historical partnerships like Paul Poiret and Raoul Dufy in 1910 showcase fashion's yearning for handmade authenticity.
Key facts
- Ann Demeulemeester left her fashion label in November 2013 via a handwritten PDF letter.
- Raf Simons incorporated early Andy Warhol drawings into Christian Dior's collection, valuing hand work.
- Phoebe Philo's Céline Spring/Summer 2014 collection featured abstract brushwork inspired by Brassaï's graffiti photos.
- Miuccia Prada commissioned multiple artists to create hand-painted murals for a runway show at Fondazione Prada in Milan.
- The Prada project emphasized collaborative, physical art-making to counter digital disembodiment.
- Julie Verhoeven criticized digital prints, advocating for gestural qualities with artist's hand evident.
- Paul Poiret collaborated with Raoul Dufy in 1910, viewing dressmaking as an art equal to painting.
- Handmade marks in fashion are believed to convey rarity and skill, even in multiples.
Entities
Artists
- Ann Demeulemeester
- Roy Lichtenstein
- Jackson Pollock
- Franz Kline
- Paul Poiret
- Raoul Dufy
- Andy Warhol
- Howard Tangye
- Julie Verhoeven
- Raf Simons
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Coco Chanel
- Cristóbal Balenciaga
- Madeleine Vionnet
- Phoebe Philo
- Brassaï
- Miuccia Prada
- Stinkfish
- Miles 'El Mac' Gregor
- Gabriel Specter
- Mesa
- Jeanne Detallante
- Pierre Mornet
- Luca Zamoc
- Gionata 'Ozmo' Gesi
- Michael Rock
- Mary Katrantzou
Institutions
- Christian Dior
- Serpentine Galleries
- Central Saint Martins
- Peter Jensen
- Versace
- Louis Vuitton
- Céline
- Fondazione Prada
- 2 X 4
- ArtReview Asia
Locations
- Belgium
- London
- United Kingdom
- Paris
- France
- Milan
- Italy
- Manhattan
- United States
- Beverly Hills