Fashion's Ambivalent Role in Defining Femininity
The article explores how fashion both challenges and reinforces societal norms of femininity. It critiques pinkwashing and the hollow use of terms like 'free femininity' and 'gender parity' by corporations. Despite progress, less than 25% of leadership roles in major fashion brands are held by women, with exceptions like Chanel CEO Leena Nair and Saint Laurent's Francesca Bellettini. The piece references Simone de Beauvoir's 'The Second Sex' and Betty Friedan's 'feminine mystique' to argue that femininity is a personal journey, not an external prescription. Historical examples include women adopting trousers during WWII, miniskirts, the Peacock Revolution of 1966, and Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking. Contemporary designers like Dilara Findikoglu and Marco Rambaldi are cited for challenging standards. The article is part of Artribune's Fashiontribune series, featuring designer Jezabelle Cormio and Mulieris Magazine.
Key facts
- Less than 25% of leadership positions in major fashion brands are held by women.
- Leena Nair is CEO of Chanel.
- Francesca Bellettini is at Saint Laurent.
- Simone de Beauvoir wrote 'The Second Sex'.
- Betty Friedan coined 'feminine mystique' in the 1960s.
- Women adopted trousers during WWII.
- Peacock Revolution occurred in 1966.
- Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking was photographed by Helmut Newton in 1975.
- Dilara Findikoglu referenced Joan of Arc.
- Marco Rambaldi's collection featured 'starving stars'.
- Artribune's Fashiontribune format airs Wednesdays at 8 PM on Twitch.
- Jezabelle Cormio is a fashion designer and founder of her eponymous brand.
- Mulieris Magazine is an independent magazine.
Entities
Artists
- Tamara de Lempicka
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Helmut Newton
- Dilara Findikoglu
- Marco Rambaldi
- Jezabelle Cormio
- Simone de Beauvoir
- Betty Friedan
- Leena Nair
- Francesca Bellettini
Institutions
- Chanel
- Saint Laurent
- Artribune
- Mulieris Magazine
- Vogue Paris
Locations
- Vaprio D'Adda
- Milan
- Bordeaux
- rue Aubriot