ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Fashion in 2023: No Revolutions, More Shows, Same Problems

opinion-review · 2026-04-27

In 2023, the fashion sector resumed in-person events reminiscent of pre-pandemic times, highlighted by Ralph Lauren's showcase at New York Fashion Week. Luxury labels broadened their global reach with traveling shows, including Louis Vuitton in Hong Kong, Dior in Mumbai, and Chanel in Manchester, alongside events in Rio, Seoul, Stockholm, Miami, and Los Angeles. However, inclusivity saw a decline, with plus-size representation at merely 0.6% in February-March and 0.9% in September-October, lacking diversity in age and disability. Sustainability efforts faltered; although Stella McCartney presented biodegradable materials, the Mylo project was discontinued, and Renewcell is halting production. Fast fashion flourished, with Shein eyeing an IPO and Inditex recruiting leading image creators. Ethical concerns lingered, particularly wage exploitation in Mauritius factories. Notable designer shifts included Pharrell at Louis Vuitton, while Kering faced stock penalties and Farfetch was delisted due to $500 million in debt. The fashion landscape remains anxious amid ongoing political and economic instability.

Key facts

  • Ralph Lauren returned to New York Fashion Week in September 2023.
  • Louis Vuitton showed menswear pre-collection in Hong Kong, Dior in Mumbai, Chanel in Manchester.
  • Plus-size models were 0.6% of shows in Feb-Mar and 0.9% in Sep-Oct 2023.
  • Stella McCartney proposed biodegradable sequins and vegan fur at COP28.
  • Mylo mushroom leather production was discontinued; Renewcell will stop production.
  • Shein valued at $66 billion, plans IPO.
  • Inditex hired Steven Meisel and Tim Walker.
  • Transparentem found wage slavery in Mauritius factories for Diesel, Armani, PVH.
  • Pharrell Williams joined Louis Vuitton, Chemena Kamali joined Chloé.
  • Kering stock was penalized; Farfetch delisted after Coupang acquisition.

Entities

Artists

  • Stella McCartney
  • Pharrell Williams
  • Chemena Kamali
  • Steven Meisel
  • Tim Walker

Institutions

  • Ralph Lauren
  • Dolce&Gabbana
  • Chanel
  • Dior
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Carolina Herrera
  • Gucci
  • MaxMara
  • Hugo Boss
  • Balenciaga
  • Kering
  • Farfetch
  • Coupang
  • Inditex
  • Uniqlo
  • H&M
  • Shein
  • Diesel
  • Armani
  • PVH
  • Calvin Klein
  • Tommy Hilfiger
  • Transparentem
  • Renewcell
  • Mylo
  • New York Fashion Week
  • COP28

Locations

  • Hong Kong
  • Mumbai
  • India
  • Manchester
  • United Kingdom
  • Rio
  • Brazil
  • Seoul
  • South Korea
  • Stockholm
  • Sweden
  • Miami
  • United States
  • Los Angeles
  • Milan
  • Italy
  • Paris
  • France
  • New York
  • Mauritius
  • Singapore
  • Dubai
  • United Arab Emirates

Sources