ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Fashion as Political Statement: From Craxi's Jeans to Merkel's Blazers

opinion-review · 2026-04-27

The article explores the relationship between fashion and politics, arguing that clothing serves as a non-verbal communication tool for political messaging. It traces the evolution of political dress from the 1970s, when left- and right-wing factions were identifiable by parkas and leather jackets, to Bettino Craxi's scandalous appearance at the Quirinale in 1979 wearing jeans, which angered President Sandro Pertini. The piece notes that politicians use clothing as propaganda to connect with voters. For women in politics, the challenge is greater: a journalist was removed from the Chamber press gallery for an "inappropriate" dress, yet no formal dress code exists for women. Female leaders like Margaret Thatcher, Angela Merkel, Christine Lagarde, and Giorgia Meloni have adopted "power dressing"—often masculine-coded suits by Giorgio Armani—to assert authority. Merkel created a uniform of colorful blazers. Michelle Obama's style evolution is highlighted: during her White House years, she practiced "sartorial diplomacy," wearing Naeem Khan for an Indian prime minister visit and Versace for Matteo Renzi. Post-presidency, she embraces eclectic style with stylist Meredith Koop, wearing yellow from her 2009 inauguration suit to a 2022 Proenza Schouler outfit. The article concludes that fashion remains a potent political medium, with Obama now dressing for herself, natural hair included.

Key facts

  • Bettino Craxi wore jeans to the Quirinale in 1979, angering President Sandro Pertini.
  • A journalist was removed from the Chamber press gallery for an 'inappropriate' dress with uncovered shoulders.
  • No formal dress code exists for women in the Italian Chamber of Deputies.
  • Margaret Thatcher, Angela Merkel, Christine Lagarde, and Giorgia Meloni adopted power dressing.
  • Michelle Obama wore yellow for Barack Obama's 2009 inauguration.
  • Michelle Obama wore Balenciaga boots for a 2018 interview with Sarah Jessica Parker.
  • Michelle Obama wore a Proenza Schouler outfit on the Today show in November 2022.
  • Michelle Obama's stylist is Meredith Koop.

Entities

Artists

  • Francesco Guccini
  • Bettino Craxi
  • Sandro Pertini
  • Matteo Salvini
  • Luigi Di Maio
  • Margaret Thatcher
  • Angela Merkel
  • Christine Lagarde
  • Giorgia Meloni
  • Michelle Obama
  • Barack Obama
  • Sarah Jessica Parker
  • Meredith Koop
  • Naeem Khan
  • Matteo Renzi
  • Giorgio Armani
  • Georg Simmel

Institutions

  • Quirinale
  • Presidenza della Repubblica
  • Camera dei Deputati
  • Polizia di Stato
  • Protezione Civile
  • Casa Bianca
  • Studio Ovale
  • Balenciaga
  • Proenza Schouler
  • Versace
  • Giorgio Armani
  • Naeem Khan
  • Artribune

Locations

  • Italia
  • Roma
  • Quirinale
  • Camera dei Deputati
  • Casa Bianca
  • Washington
  • Stati Uniti
  • India

Sources