ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Fashion as community: from YSL's muses to Missoni's family clan

opinion-review · 2026-04-26

The piece contends that the essence of fashion is rooted in communal creativity, community ties, and familial relationships, rather than in the brilliance of individuals. It critiques how the media glorifies creative leaders such as Giorgio Armani, Karl Lagerfeld, and Miuccia Prada, and instead focuses on brands that foster a sense of belonging, referred to as 'clans.' Yves Saint Laurent is portrayed as a lone visionary surrounded by friends and muses. In the 1970s, Halston formed the 'Halstonettes,' featuring Pat Cleveland and Anjelica Huston. Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino (2016-2024) recognized his atelier team during final bows. The documentary 'Dior and I' (2014) showcases the significance of premières d'atelier during Raf Simons' time (2012-2015) and celebrates Italian family-owned fashion brands like Etro and Missoni for their close-knit perspectives.

Key facts

  • The article critiques the media's mythologizing of fashion designers as solitary geniuses.
  • Yves Saint Laurent's circle included Paloma Picasso, Catherine Deneuve, Marisa Berenson, Loulou de la Falaise, and Betty Catroux.
  • Halston created the 'Halstonettes' in the 1970s, including Pat Cleveland, Anjelica Huston, and Elsa Peretti.
  • Pierpaolo Piccioli shared the runway with his atelier team during his tenure at Valentino (2016-2024).
  • The documentary 'Dior and I' (2014) by Frédéric Tcheng covers Raf Simons' arrival at Dior (2012-2015).
  • Etro was founded by Girolamo Etro in 1968 and is known for paisley patterns.
  • Missoni was founded in 1953 by Rosita and Ottavio Missoni, famous for zigzag knit patterns.
  • Rosita Missoni recently passed away.

Entities

Artists

  • Yves Saint Laurent
  • Paloma Picasso
  • Catherine Deneuve
  • Marisa Berenson
  • Loulou de la Falaise
  • Betty Catroux
  • Halston
  • Pat Cleveland
  • Anjelica Huston
  • Elsa Peretti
  • Pierpaolo Piccioli
  • Raf Simons
  • Girolamo Etro
  • Rosita Missoni
  • Ottavio Missoni
  • Giorgio Armani
  • Karl Lagerfeld
  • Miuccia Prada
  • Frédéric Tcheng
  • Alessandro Masetti

Institutions

  • Valentino
  • Dior
  • Etro
  • Missoni
  • Studio 54
  • Fondazione Giovanni Michelucci
  • Artribune

Locations

  • Paris
  • Avenue Marceau 5
  • New York
  • India
  • Fiesole
  • Italy
  • Scotland

Sources