Elizabeth Goodspeed on the rise of aesthetic labeling in visual culture
Elizabeth Goodspeed examines the contemporary trend of categorizing images into named aesthetics online, arguing that this practice compresses complex visual culture into searchable labels. She traces the history of artistic naming from Dadaism and Fauvism to modern terms like "palewave" and "indie sleaze," noting how names like "art deco" succeeded while "austerity/binge" faded. Goodspeed highlights the role of platforms like 4chan and TikTok in generating labels, and the influence of trend forecasters like Death to Stock and research collectives like Cari. She warns that AI image generators further flatten aesthetics into keyword-driven aggregates, citing "hippie" as an example. Designer Michael Oswell describes this as a shift toward "keywordability," while cyberethnographer Ruby Thelot invokes Édouard Glissant's concept of "opacity" as resistance to classification. Goodspeed concludes that naming can both clarify and obscure, with labels like Cari's "Utopian Scholastic" preserving historical specificity.
Key facts
- Elizabeth Goodspeed is US editor-at-large for It's Nice That.
- Goodspeed notes a rise in comments asking 'what aesthetic is this?' under images online.
- The term 'palewave' emerged on 4chan fashion boards in the mid-2010s.
- Fauvism was named after critic Louis Vauxcelles' remark 'Donatello parmi les fauves' in 1905.
- Art deco was consolidated as a label through Bevis Hillier's 1968 book.
- Cari (Consumer Aesthetic Research Institute) documents corporate design trends.
- AI image generators produce compressed aggregates of visual associations for prompts like 'hippie'.
- Ruby Thelot draws on Édouard Glissant's idea of 'opacity' to resist classification.
Entities
Artists
- Elizabeth Goodspeed
- Richard Huelsenbeck
- Henri Matisse
- André Derain
- Louis Vauxcelles
- Bevis Hillier
- Evan Collins
- Ruby Thelot
- Michael Oswell
- Rob Dobi
- Édouard Glissant
Institutions
- It's Nice That
- Cari (Consumer Aesthetic Research Institute)
- Death to Stock
- Aesthetics Wiki
- 4chan
- TikTok
Locations
- New York
- Providence
- Paris
- London
- Williamsburg
- New Zealand
- Denali