Dean’s Restaurant: British Gastronomy Gets a Freaky, Glorious Makeover in SoHo

Dean’s, a new British-ish pub on the edge of SoHo from Jess Shadbolt and Annie Shi, serves a stargazy pie with a fish head protruding from the crust, inspired by the Cornish legend of Tom Bawcock. The dish, while visually freaky, contains a creamy chowder-like filling of assorted fishes and potato. Shadbolt, who worked at the River Café in London, and Shi, who opened Lei in Chinatown, also run the adjacent restaurant King. The menu features boiled ham with parsley bechamel, pork scratchings presented upright, cold roast beef with horseradish cream, and a green salad with curry-laced yogurt dressing. Desserts include a lemon posset and steamed ginger pudding. The space is wood-clad, tiny, and loud, with a dartboard but no room for play. Dean’s is part of a wave of restaurants reframing British gastronomy for New York, including Sailor, Lord’s, and Dame. The bar offers Guinness, Old Speckled Hen, and an impressive list of English sparkling wines. Lunch with Sunday roasts is planned. A meal for two with shared dishes and drinks costs under $300.