ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Chintz: India's Precolonial Textile Export Revealed in New Book

publication · 2026-05-27

A new book, 'Chintz: Indian Cotton Textiles from the Karun Thakar Collection', explores the global history of chintz, a block-printed cotton fabric that was a major precolonial export from India. Published by ACC Art Books on 28 November 2025, the 400-page volume features 300 colour illustrations and essays by 12 scholars, including Avalon Fotheringham (curator at the Victoria and Albert Museum) and John Guy (Metropolitan Museum of Art). The book traces chintz's trade routes from the 13th century to Japan, Indonesia, France, and Britain, long before European colonialism. It highlights the unknown artisans from oral societies who created these textiles, which were often used for specific purposes and rarely survive. The term 'chintz' derives from Hindi for 'spray' or 'splattered', and the fabric typically features red and indigo dyes on ivory cotton. Notable examples include 18th-century jackets for the Thai king's guards made on the Coromandel Coast, and 'The Flower Picker', a unique piece referencing 9th-century Tamil poet Manikkavacakar. The book argues that chintz makers were among the most influential in art and design history, despite the industry's decline due to European industrialization.

Key facts

  • Book 'Chintz: Indian Cotton Textiles from the Karun Thakar Collection' published 28 November 2025 by ACC Art Books.
  • 400 pages with 300 colour illustrations, edited by Karun Thakar with essays by 12 scholars.
  • Chintz is a block-printed cotton fabric exported from India for over a thousand years.
  • Trade routes reached Japan, Indonesia, France, and Britain precolonially.
  • The word 'chintz' comes from Hindi for 'spray' or 'splattered'.
  • Textiles rarely survive due to everyday use; makers are unknown from oral societies.
  • Example: 18th-century jackets for Thai king's guards made on Coromandel Coast.
  • Unique piece 'The Flower Picker' may reference 9th-century Tamil poet Manikkavacakar.

Entities

Artists

  • Karun Thakar
  • Avalon Fotheringham
  • John Guy
  • Manikkavacakar
  • Cyrus Naji

Institutions

  • Victoria and Albert Museum
  • Metropolitan Museum of Art
  • ACC Art Books

Locations

  • India
  • Japan
  • Indonesia
  • France
  • Britain
  • London
  • New York
  • Coromandel Coast
  • southeast India
  • Thailand

Sources