Chang Kiha's Personal Seoul: From Gangnam to Hongdae

Musician Chang Kiha shares his intimate guide to Seoul, reflecting on the city's transformation over two decades. Born in Seoul, he spent his first half in Gangnam's Seocho-dong, where his world revolved around local schools and the tteokbokki spot in Seocho Shopping Centre. In his early 20s, he crossed the Han River into Hongdae's indie music scene, joining band Nunco in 2002 and playing weekly at Jammers. Now living in Yeonhui-dong, he notes Hongdae's gentrification has pushed its subcultural spirit to districts like Morene Sukha, a venue inside a traditional market run by a musician. He recommends Tapster for its Czech-trained owner's perfect Pilsner Urquell, Concorde Seoul run by Hammond organist Lim Ji-hun (album Organ, Orgasm), Reissue Coffee Roasters for oat milk iced lattes, Dangin Sikdang for daily lunch sets, Yukgaphane for five-layer pork belly, and Piknic gallery in Namsan for silent films with live scores. He runs along Hongjecheon Stream and the Han River, enjoys riverside picnics, and visits Poset Yeonhui, a postcard shop in Yeonhui-dong. Photographs by Taemin Ha; interview by Daniel Tudor for FT's How To Spend It In.