ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

BIPOC talents challenge Italian fashion industry's inclusivity

other · 2026-04-27

Six BIPOC (Black, Indigenous and People of Color) creatives share their experiences in the Italian fashion sector, highlighting systemic barriers and tokenism. Paul Roger Tanonkou, Michelle Francine Ngonmo, and others discuss the need for genuine representation. Ngonmo founded Wariboko agency, representing 38 Afro-descendant talents. Zenam, a fashion designer, launched a brand fusing Made in Italy with sub-Saharan African traditions. An activist created Afro Fashion Association in 2015, criticizing post-Black Lives Matter tokenism. Make-up artists note lack of dark skin product shades in Italy, forcing them to train abroad. Photographer Marzio Emilio Villa, a black-indigenous artist based in Milan, has exhibited at Myriam Bouagal Galerie in Paris and his work 'Privileges' entered MUDEC's permanent collection in 2021. He participated in PhotoVogue Festival 22's collective 'Italian Panorama'.

Key facts

  • Six BIPOC talents in Italian fashion discuss representation and discrimination.
  • Michelle Francine Ngonmo founded Wariboko agency with 38 Afro-descendant talents.
  • Zenam brand fuses Made in Italy with sub-Saharan African traditions.
  • Afro Fashion Association was created in 2015 to promote diversity.
  • Post-Black Lives Matter attention to diversity declined, seen as a trend.
  • Make-up artists report lack of dark skin products in Italy, training abroad.
  • Marzio Emilio Villa's work 'Privileges' entered MUDEC permanent collection in 2021.
  • Villa participated in PhotoVogue Festival 22's collective 'Italian Panorama'.

Entities

Artists

  • Paul Roger Tanonkou
  • Michelle Francine Ngonmo
  • Zenam
  • Marzio Emilio Villa
  • Elena Canesso

Institutions

  • Artribune
  • Wariboko
  • Accademia del Lusso
  • Afro Fashion Association
  • Accademia delle belle arti di Douala
  • Myriam Bouagal Galerie
  • Wall Street Journal
  • MUDEC
  • PhotoVogue Festival

Locations

  • Carpi
  • Italy
  • Milano
  • Paris
  • France
  • Repubblica Dominicana
  • Spain
  • Brasil
  • Shanghai
  • Guangzhou
  • China
  • Padova
  • Marche
  • Douala
  • Cameroon

Sources