Beyond Fashion exhibition at Saatchi Gallery explores fashion photography's artistic status and market rise

"Beyond Fashion," an exhibition at London's Saatchi Gallery, runs until 8 September and is curated by Nathalie Herschdorfer. It features over a hundred contemporary fashion photographs from renowned photographers such as Peter Lindbergh, Juergen Teller, Mario Testino, Nick Knight, Ellen von Unwerth, Koto Bolofo, and Feng Li. The show delves into themes of fantasy and surrealism, reflecting the artistic progression of fashion photography shaped by social media. Historical influences include Man Ray and Erwin Blumenfeld, while modern icons like Alexander McQueen blend art with fashion. The exhibition highlights the significance of fashion imagery, appealing to collectors of Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton. Critics note the ambiguity of categories, while artists like Tenant of Culture and Bárbara Sánchez-Kane address fashion's waste, and designers such as Grace Wales Bonner and Jonathan Anderson investigate creative partnerships. Both sectors are under commercial strain, with Kering facing profit declines and independent brands encountering challenges.