Aurora Fiorentini on the crisis in fashion: loss of poetry, investor control, and market shifts
In an interview with Artribune, fashion historian Aurora Fiorentini reflects on the turmoil within the fashion sector, echoing journalist Antonio Mancinelli's view that it has lost its essence of poetry and narrative. She notes that emerging designers are often influenced by investors who emphasize marketing over craftsmanship, leading to a loss of brand identity. The current global crisis hampers creativity, contrasting with the Italian Renaissance's vibrant growth during stable times. The proliferation of collections compromises quality, as luxury labels cater more to nouveaux riches and influencers than to discerning customers. In 2024, at least 11 brands will have appointed new artistic directors in response to budget cuts. Fiorentini also honors influential 1990s designers like Gianfranco Ferré and contemporary labels such as Miu Miu and Prada. Her latest endeavor is "Partirò e porto le cose a casa," a tribute to Eleonora Duse in Florence.
Key facts
- Aurora Fiorentini is a fashion historian, museum consultant, curator, and lecturer at Polimoda Florence, IULM Milan, and LUISS Rome.
- She agrees with journalist Antonio Mancinelli that fashion has lost poetry and storytelling.
- Multinational luxury groups have erased brand distinctions, prioritizing marketing over inspiration.
- The global crisis does not favor creativity; the Italian Renaissance required peace, wealth, and stability.
- Demand for more collections has penalized quality, with customers noticing declining materials and innovation.
- Luxury brands now target nouveaux riches and influencers, not knowledgeable middle-tier clients.
- In 2024, at least 11 global brands changed artistic directors; Fiorentini says investors blame creative directors for unmet revenue targets.
- Key 1990s Italian designers: Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace; Valentino Garavani represents classic tailoring.
- Current interesting Italian brands: Miu Miu, Prada, Marni, Rick Owens (considered Italian).
- Fiorentini worked at Gucci from 1996 under Domenico De Sole on heritage marketing, archives, and the Gucci Museum.
- Gucci Group acquired Yves Saint Laurent, Sergio Rossi, Bottega Veneta, Boucheron, Balenciaga, McQueen.
- She curated heritage projects for Hugo Boss, Fendi, Valentino, Dior, Zegna.
- Co-curated 'La Sala Bianca. Nascita della Moda italiana' (1992-1994) at Palazzo Strozzi, Louvre, Guggenheim.
- Latest exhibition 'Partirò e porto le cose a casa' for Eleonora Duse centenary at Teatro della Pergola, Florence.
- Fiorentini believes fashion exhibitions should inspire curiosity and be catalysts for meaning.
Entities
Artists
- Aurora Fiorentini
- Antonio Mancinelli
- Gianfranco Ferré
- Giorgio Armani
- Gianni Versace
- Valentino Garavani
- Alessandro Michele
- Domenico De Sole
- Stefania Ricci
- Gae Aulenti
- Luca Ronconi
- Eleonora Duse
Institutions
- Artribune
- Polimoda
- IULM
- LUISS
- Gucci
- Gucci Group
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Sergio Rossi
- Bottega Veneta
- Boucheron
- Balenciaga
- McQueen
- Hugo Boss
- Fendi
- Valentino
- Dior
- Zegna
- Palazzo Strozzi
- Louvre
- Guggenheim
- Teatro della Pergola
- Miu Miu
- Prada
- Marni
- Rick Owens
Locations
- Florence
- Italy
- Milan
- Rome
- Paris
- New York
- Modena