ArtReview Critiques Artworld's Framing of Food as Art
In his April 2025 article for ArtReview, Chris Fite-Wassilak critiques how the art world perceives culinary experiences as art, emphasizing the artistic essence of food itself. He discusses Sandra Knecht's "The Dinner Party," held at Serpentine's Magazine restaurant in London in March 2025, which featured an elaborate eight-course meal showcasing food portraits of notable figures such as Claude Cahun and Frida Kahlo. This event is characterized as part of "culinary gatherings with a critical edge." Additionally, the article mentions Ellen Mara De Wachter's December 2024 book, "More Than the Eyes: Art, Food and the Senses," while critiquing the trend of deconstructing art-food. Fite-Wassilak also points out the problematic timing of Knecht's dinner during Ramadan and contrasts gourmet dining with everyday food practices in art venues, ultimately asserting that food is inherently art.
Key facts
- Sandra Knecht staged 'The Dinner Party' at Serpentine's Magazine restaurant in London in March 2025.
- The meal featured eight courses, each a food portrait of figures like Claude Cahun, Marcel Moore, PJ Harvey, Nan Goldin, Frida Kahlo, and Zanele Muholi.
- Ellen Mara De Wachter's book 'More Than the Eyes: Art, Food and the Senses' was released in December 2024.
- The book profiles ten artists' food projects including Carolee Schneemann's 'Meat Joy' (1964) and FOOD restaurant (1971–74).
- Hans Ulrich Obrist introduced Knecht's event, citing her Swiss farm as a 'durational' artwork.
- Collectives Campo Adentro (Spain), Sakiya (Palestine), and Lakshmi Nivas Collective (India) merge art with agriculture.
- Cooking Sections' CLIMAVORE project (2017–) is on the Isle of Skye.
- The article argues food is already art and does not need institutional framing.
Entities
Artists
- Sandra Knecht
- Claude Cahun
- Marcel Moore
- PJ Harvey
- Nan Goldin
- Frida Kahlo
- Zanele Muholi
- Carolee Schneemann
- Tina Girouard
- Carol Goodden
- Gordon Matta-Clark
- Lucien Smith
- Yinka Shonibare
- Adrián Villar Rojas
- Hans Ulrich Obrist
- Chris Fite-Wassilak
- Jacques Derrida
- Carson McCullers
- Judy Chicago
Institutions
- Serpentine
- Magazine restaurant
- ArtReview
- Smart Museum of Art, Chicago
- Campo Adentro
- Sakiya
- Lakshmi Nivas Collective
- Cooking Sections
Locations
- London
- United Kingdom
- Switzerland
- Spain
- Palestine
- India
- Isle of Skye
- Scotland
- New York City
- United States
- Chicago