Arthur Arbesser and Marco de Vincenzo Show at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017/18

At Milan Fashion Week, Arthur Arbesser presented a Fall/Winter 2017/18 collection inspired by Peter Handke's poetry and Wim Wenders' film 'Wings of Desire'. The show took place in a 19th-century barracks on Via Vincenzo Monti, featuring blue-lit walls and old bread ovens evoking wartime. Models appeared with grotesque makeup and hair reminiscent of George Grosz and dolls, with looks ranging from childlike to androgynous. Arbesser collaborated with Swarovski for crystal-embellished pinstripes and with Vibram for avant-garde footwear. The collection blended Tuscan casentino wool, Austrian loden, metallic fabrics, and pink plastic. Marco de Vincenzo's collection was described as a bridge between Gucci and Fendi, exemplifying the 'Scuola Romana' identified by Maria Luisa Frisa. De Vincenzo focused on fabric manipulation with plissé, pleats, and ruches, mixing artificial and natural materials. His silhouette remained 'normal' with colorful fur jackets, coats, and fluttering dresses, accessorized to project a surreal future. Both designers showed at Milan Fashion Week in February 2017.