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Aldo Premoli defends L’Uomo Vogue history against Flavio Lucchini’s account

opinion-review · 2026-05-05

Aldo Premoli, the former director, challenges Flavio Lucchini’s account of L’Uomo Vogue’s origins. The magazine debuted in 1967, inspired by Sergio Galeotti, shortly before Giorgio Armani launched his men’s collection. Designed by Lucchini alongside director Franco Sartori, it was under his direction for three years before Cristina Brigidini took over from 1979 to 1993, turning it into a successful and respected publication. Premoli led from 1992 until 2000, with oversight from Franca Sozzani. The introduction of GQ by Condé Nast in 1999 marked the beginning of L’Uomo Vogue's gradual decline. Anna Dello Russo directed from 2000 to 2006, followed by Sozzani until the magazine ceased. Premoli argues that the magazine's success stemmed from photographers like Bruce Weber and Steven Meisel, not sociologist Francesco Alberoni, as claimed by Lucchini.

Key facts

  • L’Uomo Vogue was launched in 1967 on Sergio Galeotti’s suggestion.
  • Flavio Lucchini designed the magazine with Franco Sartori and directed it for three years.
  • Cristina Brigidini directed from 1979 to 1993, making it profitable and authoritative.
  • Aldo Premoli directed from 1992 to 2000, supervised by Franca Sozzani.
  • Condé Nast launched GQ in 1999, leading to L’Uomo Vogue’s decline.
  • Anna Dello Russo directed from 2000 to 2006.
  • Franca Sozzani directed until the magazine closed.
  • Key photographers included Bruce Weber, Herb Ritts, Oliviero Toscani, Helmut Newton, Steven Meisel, Horst P. Horst, Mario Testino, Ugo Mulas, and Steven Klein.

Entities

Artists

  • Flavio Lucchini
  • Franco Sartori
  • Cristina Brigidini
  • Aldo Premoli
  • Franca Sozzani
  • Anna Dello Russo
  • Sergio Galeotti
  • Giorgio Armani
  • Gianni Versace
  • Ferrè
  • Helmut Lang
  • Karl Lagerfeld
  • Rei Kawakubo
  • Francesco Alberoni
  • Bruce Weber
  • Herb Ritts
  • Oliviero Toscani
  • Helmut Newton
  • Steven Meisel
  • Horst P. Horst
  • Mario Testino
  • Ugo Mulas
  • Steven Klein

Institutions

  • Condé Nast
  • L’Uomo Vogue
  • GQ
  • Artribune

Locations

  • Milan
  • Italy

Sources