Vogue's 2006 Project: Contemporary Designers Reimagine Vintage Versace and Alaïa Dresses

In March 2006, Vogue published an article exploring how young fashion enthusiasts were reviving styles from the 1990s, particularly those associated with Gianni Versace and Azzedine Alaïa. The publication conducted an experiment by sourcing three vintage dresses—two by Versace and one by Alaïa—and asked established and emerging designers how they would restyle these pieces for contemporary wear. Marc Jacobs, Donatella Versace, and Azzedine Alaïa were consulted for their perspectives, though Alaïa declined to comment. The project also involved two London-based designers: Ann-Sofie Back, known for her short, tight dresses, and Christopher Kane, a recent Central Saint Martins graduate. Jacobs expressed admiration for Gianni Versace's enduring influence and suggested styling the vintage pieces with flat shoes and a casual attitude to create surprise. Back proposed shortening the Versace gown, pairing it with sheer tights, and dressing down the sparkly dress with a beige trench coat. Kane recommended altering the gown to mid-thigh length, adding a knotted detail, and combining it with platform heels. He also suggested pairing the Alaïa dress with peachy tights and a cropped cardigan. Donatella Versace, reviewing spring collections from designers like Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, and Balenciaga, noted direct references to Versace archives but expressed flattery rather than criticism. She highlighted the cyclical nature of fashion and the desire for renewed glamour, emphasizing that young people in London were driving this trend by seeking bold, sexy styles. The article contextualized this revival as a reaction against the prim fashion of the early 2000s, with figures like Jamie Surman of i-D magazine describing it as a revolt against the 'lady look.' The piece underscored how vintage styles are reinterpreted by new generations, blending nostalgia with contemporary sensibilities.