ARTFEED — Contemporary Art Intelligence

Prada's Kolhapuri Sandal Controversy: From Cultural Appropriation to Collaboration

cultural-heritage · 2026-04-28

On June 22, 2025, during Milan Fashion Week, Prada introduced sandals that bore a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri Chappals, traditional Indian footwear crafted since the 12th century, retailing at $1,400, while the original versions cost between 300-1,500 rupees ($5-13). This led to backlash on Indian social media, prompting the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce (MACCIA) to call for recognition and financial restitution. On June 28, Lorenzo Bertelli from Prada acknowledged the sandals' inspiration. Subsequently, on July 2, six lawyers initiated a Public Interest Litigation in the Bombay High Court, which was dismissed on July 16. On July 11, Prada dispatched a technical team to Maharashtra. In December 2025, the brand entered a Memorandum of Understanding to produce 2,000 sandals, launching the collection on April 27, 2026, at €750 per pair, alongside a training initiative for 180 artisans.

Key facts

  • Prada presented T-strap sandals at Milan Fashion Week on June 22, 2025
  • The design closely resembled Kolhapuri Chappals, a traditional Indian footwear with 12th-century origins
  • Original Kolhapuri Chappals cost 300-1,500 rupees ($5-13); Prada's were estimated at $1,400
  • MACCIA president Lalit Gandhi wrote to Prada demanding attribution and collaboration
  • Karnataka minister Priyank Kharge publicly supported the artisans
  • Lorenzo Bertelli acknowledged the inspiration on June 28, 2025
  • A PIL was filed on July 2, 2025, citing GI protection under the 1999 Act (registered 2009, renewed to 2029)
  • Bombay High Court dismissed the PIL on July 16, 2025, for lack of standing
  • Prada signed an MoU with LIDCOM and LIDKAR in December 2025
  • The collection launched on April 27, 2026, at €750 per pair in 40 stores and online
  • A three-year training program for 180 artisans was announced, delivered by NIFT

Entities

Artists

  • Lalit Gandhi
  • Priyank Kharge
  • Lorenzo Bertelli

Institutions

  • Prada
  • Milan Fashion Week
  • Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA)
  • Bombay High Court
  • Supreme Court of Bombay
  • LIDCOM
  • LIDKAR
  • National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)
  • Prada Group Academy
  • Italy-India Business Forum
  • National Institute of Fashion Technology

Locations

  • Milan
  • Italy
  • Kolhapur
  • India
  • Maharashtra
  • Karnataka
  • Pune
  • Mumbai

Sources

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