Chintz: The Indian Textile Craze That Transformed Europe
Chintz, a decorative cotton fabric either painted or printed, originated in India and captivated Europe starting in the 17th century, transforming both fashion and international commerce. Mainly crafted in central India, it showcased elaborate designs and vivid hues. The first European contact occurred in 1498 with Vasco da Gama. By the 17th century, chintz had become a common item in Britain and France, despite its informal reputation. By the late 1600s, imports exceeded 1 million pieces each year. To safeguard local industries, France imposed a ban in 1686, followed by Britain in 1700, which resulted in smuggling and counterfeits. The Swadeshi movement in 1905 and Mahatma Gandhi's efforts from 1918 included burning 150,000 pieces in Mumbai in 1921, impacting design and colonial relations.
Key facts
- Chintz is a painted or printed cotton fabric using natural dyes and mordants.
- Production centers included Masulipatnam on the Coromandel Coast and Sironj on the western coast.
- Hand-painted chintz is called kalamkari.
- Vasco da Gama reached Calicut in 1498, initiating chintz trade with Europe.
- By the late 17th century, over 1 million pieces of chintz were imported annually by Britain, France, and the Netherlands.
- France banned chintz imports in 1686; Britain imposed a partial ban in 1700.
- European imitations included toiles de Jouy by Oberkampf and indiennes from Mulhouse.
- The Swadeshi movement and Gandhi promoted khadi and burned foreign cloth in 1921.
Entities
Artists
- Vasco da Gama
- Madame de Pompadour
- Louis XV
- François-Hubert Drouais
- Christoph-Philippe Oberkampf
- Mahatma Gandhi
- Petronella Dunois
- Thomas Chippendale Senior
- Roque Gameiro
Institutions
- The Rijksmuseum
- Victoria & Albert Museum
- The National Gallery
- Oberkampf factory
- English East India Company
- Indian National Congress
Locations
- India
- Europe
- Calicut
- Kerala
- Masulipatnam
- Coromandel Coast
- Sironj
- Portugal
- Britain
- France
- Netherlands
- Versailles
- Mulhouse
- Alsace
- Mumbai
- Houghton Hall
- London
- Amsterdam