Bruce Pascoe's Dark Emu Sparks Australian Native Food Revival Through Indigenous Agriculture Rediscovery

In 2014, Bruce Pascoe's book Dark Emu revolutionized historical perspectives by highlighting the agricultural practices of Indigenous Australians, igniting a movement in cuisine. At his 140-acre property, Yumburra, located in East Gippsland, Victoria, Pascoe grows native species such as kangaroo grass, which is milled into flour by Black Duck Foods. His insights have inspired chefs, including Ben Shewry of Attica, who began to prioritize native ingredients after engaging with Dark Emu. The book draws from the experiences of 19th-century explorers like Major Thomas Mitchell and George Grey. Born in 1946, Pascoe later uncovered his Indigenous heritage. While Aboriginal-owned enterprises like Gather Foods create native products, they represent merely 2% of the industry’s revenue. In 2025, Pascoe intends to hand over Yumburra to local Indigenous community members.